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| Cerro Uritorco taken from El Gusano |
Capilla del Monte is
the place for winter climbing in Argentina. That is, if your idea of winter climbing is warm, dry days, spent climbing on easily accessed, sunkissed granite.
Last time I was in Capilla was during my winter break in 2012. That was only six months after my revision surgery and I still had a long ways to go to overcome the difficulties of my hip problems. You can read about the earlier trip in three installments from my old blog, starting here:
http://tbratten.blogspot.com.ar/2012/09/how-i-spent-my-winter-vacation-part-1.html
This time around it was just Gaby and me. Our daughter Cecilia, who is in full adolescence, has totally renounced climbing. She stayed with relatives in Rio Cuarto. For our first round of climbing, we were also joined by Gaby's nephew Rodrigo, who drove up from Córdoba for the day. Like last time, we began with the three slab routes on La Tortuga.
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| Rodrigo top ropes a slab route on La Tortuga |
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| Gaby Cendoya on belay duty |
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| Slab-o-licious |
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| Why is it carrion eaters always show up when we climb? |
We also did a 6b (5.10) on the steeper wall just above and to the right of La Tortuga. The start of this route was tricky and bouldery and it took me some work to figure it out, After that, I managed to get the redpoint.
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| Rodrigo made it to the top of this 6b |
The second day Gaby and I went to a new sector of easy routes called El Gusano.
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| Gaby clmbs one of the 6a routes on El Gusano |
There are six short, but very nice routes, that entail climbing on beautiful, small crystals. One is rated 5, two more are called 5+, two others are rated 6a and the remaining one is called 6a+. Pretty mellow, but the rock is high quality and provides a fun way to tick off a half a dozen routes.
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| Gaby on the crux move of the other 6a route |
After finishing up the routes on El Gusano we walked down to check out the wall known as Objetos Perdidos. This is the new, premium, sport climbing wall in Capilla del Monte and it looks very good. However the two easier routes on the main wall (a 6b and a 6b+) were both occupied, so after waiting for awhile in the late afternoon shade, we decided to head back to the hotel.
The third day we went to the sector Ferrata. This is the main wall right in front of the entrance to Los Mogotes and even though it was Saturday we had the place to ourselves. There are a variety of good routes here including several two pitch climbs and the beautiful 6b hand crack Sr. Matanza, which I did back in 1995 or 1996.when there were hardly any routes in the area.
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| Gaby on top of a 6a in the sector Ferrata |
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| Climbing a 6a+ in the sector Ferrata |
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| We did all three routes that start from this platform |
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| Gaby on rappel after trying a 6a+ |
All in all we did four routes. A 6a, two 6a+s and a 6b. Once again the 6b had a tricky, bouldery start that took me a little work before I could get the send.
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| The river below the sector Ferrata |
The last day climbing we went up to the Placas de Arriba. This is a beautiful, steep wall with a bunch of long, technical face climbs on small edges.
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| At the base of the Placas de Arriba |
We started with the easiest route (an easy 5+) which is short and strange and then moved over to try Placa Turistera. This is a route I've wanted to try since before 2012, but I didn't feel ready to give it a go the other times I was at the wall. Originally rated 6a+, I think the new 6b grade is warranted (I would call it solid 10c in US grades): the route starts with a challenging move to get to the first bolt and then remains steep and technical for several more bolts (with at least one good rest) before finally getting easier near the top.
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| Gaby milking the good rest at the second bolt on Placa Turistera |
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| Higher up on the same route |
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| Gaby on top of Placa Turistera |
Gaby and I both climbed well on this one (I guess you could say we kind of hiked it) and I believe it was my first Argentine 6b onsight (and only my third 10c onsight) since before the hip sugeries began.
Next we climbed a strange and elegant 6a+ on the left side of the wall that I had done a couple of times before. Originally rated 6a, then upped to 6a+, and now, for some reason called 6b in the new guide, this route counts as the easiest 6b we've done at Capilla At any rate, the route is harder if you're short and in that case the new grade might be more accurate.
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| Gaby climbs a strange and elegant 6a+ (now called 6b) at Placas de Arriba |
After that we crossed over a bushy gully to the Gran Balero where I managed to onsight in pretty good style a stout, Argentine-old-school 6b slab (I would call this one solid 10d in US grades): certainly my hardest onsight since hip surgery and my second 6b onsight for the day.
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| Gaby finishing up the difficulties on a stout 6b slab at the Gran Balero |
Our last route for the day was my attempt at a long 6b+ on Placas de Arriba. It turns out this route has a tricky, bouldery crux section at the fourth bolt. My feet were so sore and spent from so much slab/face climbing that I was in no condition to work the crux and go for the redpoint. So I pulled on the sling to pass the crux and then finished up the easier climbing above, to the top of the route.
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| My last climb of the day was an attempt at this beautiful and challenging 6b+ |
All and all a very nice trip together with Gaby (who climbed quite well). This was the first time Gaby and I managed to get back into a our old "Team Bratten" climbing rhythm for many years and I think it felt kind of magical to both of us. If anyone cares (obviously I do), looking back at the count, I managed to onsight or redpoint 18 more routes, taking my grand total for the year to 106 different routes.
