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| The climbing area on Mt. Macdonald in Mt. Wells Regional Park |
My wife, Gaby, is the Argentine regional president for the International Biometrics Society and she likes to attend the biennial international meetings. This year the meeting was in Victoria, Canada. Since we typically have a two week break from the University at the end of July and since I am now eligible to take 15 days of additional leave, we decided to take a week long trip to Victoria as part of a month long vacation to visit my sister in the US and to rock climb.
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| Pacific madrone trees |
Mt. Wells Regional Park is less than one hour from downtown Victoria and the guide book shows almost 120 different routes. The climbs are mostly one pitch, both trad and sport, generally in the 5.9 through 5.11 range, although there is also a smattering of 5.12s.
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| Gaby rapping down a slab route in Mt. Wells Regional Park |
We climbed two days at Mt. Wells but I would have really enjoyed going back for more. The routes were varied and interesting and the cool, breezy weather was ideal for all-day climbing.
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| A 25 meter-long 5.10a face route on Mt. Macdonald |
We started out on a couple of easy slab routes.
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| Easy slab route in Mt. Wells Regional Park |
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| Finishing up an easy slab |
Ceci did some homework, to keep up from missing two weeks of school
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| Ceci studying at the base of the Prisoner Wall |
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| My daughter is studious |
After that, we moved up the hill to the South Cliffs where we did a fine 5.9 bolted face.
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| Gaby starts up a fine 5.9 face at Cosmic Lights |
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| A little stemming action |
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| Higher up the 5.9 face |
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| Mt. Wells Regional Park |
Next we did a very nice 10a bolted face.
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| Gaby points the way at the start of a 10a |
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| Higher up the 10a |
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| Eyeballing a bolt |
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| Launching into the crux sequence |
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| For me, the crux was stepping my right foot into this pocket |
After that we did another 5.9 that started in a short crack, then we moved down to climb "Sunday Snooze", a 5.8 route the guidebook describes as: "An old-school test piece and a delightful finger and hand crack." Although short, the climb was a definitely a kick and fairly challenging for the grade.
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| Pasty white, old fat guy starts up 5.8 old-school test piece. |
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| Trying to find the best holds to use in order to place gear on Sunday Snooze |
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| This finger lock move felt stout for 5.8. |
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| Get some more gear ... |
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| then top out! |
The day after next, we were back to Mt. Wells Regional Park, this time climbing at the crag on Mt. Macdonald. Our first climb of the day was a bolt-protected 5.9.
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| Another cool 5.9 face |
After that I did the 10c next door.
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| Moving into a tricky 10c crux sequence |
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| The crux |
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| This part of the route is cake |
The next route was a much easier but very enjoyable 5.10a up a steep, juggy 25 meter-long face.
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| A fun, easy 10a face |
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| I couldn't do it without Gaby! |
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| Higher up the same face |
The last climb I did was my favorite. It was a 10b that started with a steep bolt protected move into a strange and elegant gear 5.9 crack.
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| Looking to get gear after a bolt-protected move into a crack |
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| Moving up the crack on a 10b route |
After following the crack for about 40 feet, the route went past a couple more bolts protecting the 10b crux face-moves through a bulge
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| Underclings at the start of the crux on the 10b |
It's hard to believe this route wasn't done until 2011. Who knows? Maybe it needed a lot of cleaning before it could be climbed.
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| Heading into the crux on the 10b |
We also went one day to check out Fleming Beach, about 10 minutes from downtown Victoria. I wasn't so impressed with the area, but I have to say Fleming Beach has, without a doubt, the hardest 5.10 and 5.11 boulder problems I've ever seen. We ended up top roping some stuff (a route called "Pumpy Overhang" is a nice 5.9) and I played around doing some traverses.
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| A long traverse at Fleming Beach: Take 1 |
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| A long traverse at Fleming Beach: Take 2 |
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| A long traverse at Fleming Beach: Take 3 |
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| A long traverse at Fleming Beach: Take 4 |
